2 Days in Boston

Start here at the oldest public park in the country, where the Freedom Trail's red-brick line begins. Walk through the Common and cross Charles Street into the Public Garden for the lagoon, the bronze Make Way for Ducklings statues, and the suspension bridge. In warm months the Swan Boats run on the lagoon for a few dollars, but the walk itself is the point and it costs nothing.

Follow the red-brick line north from the Common. The Massachusetts State House with its gold dome is the first landmark, then the Granary Burying Ground where Paul Revere, Samuel Adams, and John Hancock are buried (free). Old South Meeting House ($8) is where the Tea Party was planned, and the Old State House ($15) is the oldest surviving public building in Boston, with the balcony where the Declaration of Independence was first read to the city. Faneuil Hall at the end is free to enter and Quincy Market behind it is good for a quick coffee.

Boston's Italian neighborhood, and the best lunch stop on the trail. Hanover Street and the cross streets off it are lined with trattorias, bakeries, and espresso bars that have been here for generations. Sit down for a plate of pasta or a prosciutto sandwich at one of the smaller places rather than the ones with the longest lines; the quality is consistent and a full lunch runs $15 to $25. Save room for a cannoli afterward.

The oldest remaining structure in downtown Boston, built around 1680 and home to Paul Revere when he made his midnight ride in 1775. The house is small and the visit takes about 30 minutes, which is all you need. The courtyard and the period rooms give you a tangible sense of colonial-era Boston that the outdoor trail markers do not.

The church where two lanterns were hung to signal that the British were coming by sea. It is Boston's oldest surviving church, built in 1723, and the white steeple is visible from blocks away. The interior is bright and compact; the box pews and the bust of George Washington are the things to look for. The behind-the-scenes crypt tour is an add-on, but the general admission is enough on a two-day trip.

A 20-minute walk across the Charlestown Bridge from the North End, or a short water shuttle from Long Wharf. "Old Ironsides" is the oldest commissioned warship still afloat, launched in 1797 and still crewed by active-duty Navy sailors who give free tours of the gun deck. Bring a valid photo ID for boarding. The adjacent museum is also free and air-conditioned, a welcome break in summer.

The last stop on the Freedom Trail, a 221-foot granite obelisk marking the site of the first major battle of the Revolution. Climbing the 294 steps to the top is free and earns you a panoramic view of the harbor, the Zakim Bridge, and the city skyline. There is no elevator, so take it at your own pace. The small museum at the base has a good ten-minute exhibit on the battle.

Head back to the North End for dinner at one of the neighborhood's Italian restaurants. The walk from Charlestown takes about 25 minutes or you can ride the T one stop from Community College. After dinner, the cannoli stop is the real closer: Mike's Pastry and Modern Pastry face each other on Hanover Street and the local debate over which is better has run for decades. Get one from each if you cannot decide; they run about $5 apiece.

Start the morning with a walk through Boston's most photogenic neighborhood. Newbury Street runs eight blocks of brownstone-fronted boutiques, galleries, and cafes, and the best stretch is the first few blocks off the Public Garden where the buildings are oldest. At the far end, Copley Square holds two landmarks side by side: Trinity Church, a Romanesque masterpiece best admired from the outside (the exterior alone is worth the stop), and the Boston Public Library, the oldest free municipal library in the country. Walk through the library's McKim Building for the murals, the courtyard, and the reading room; it is free and open to the public.

The observation deck at the top of the Prudential Tower, with a 360-degree indoor and outdoor view over the Charles River, Back Bay's brownstone grid, and the harbor. Book a timed ticket online to skip the line; the outdoor Skyline deck on 52 is the draw, with the best angle looking north over the river toward Cambridge. Morning visits tend to be less crowded than sunset slots, and on a clear day you can see all the way to New Hampshire.

Grab lunch at one of the cafes on Newbury or Boylston. The neighborhood has everything from fast-casual salad spots to sit-down bistros, so match it to your pace. A sandwich or bowl runs $15 to $20 and gets you back on your feet quickly for the museum afternoon.

One of the largest art museums in the country, with a collection that runs from Egyptian antiquities to contemporary American painting. On a two-day trip, pick two or three wings rather than trying to see everything: the American galleries on the first floor are the hometown strength, the Impressionist rooms on the second floor are among the best in the country, and the Japanese collection is one of the best outside Japan. If you visit on a Wednesday, admission is free from 4pm to 9pm. The Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum ($20) is a 10-minute walk away if you prefer a smaller, more atmospheric alternative built around a sunlit courtyard.

Walk along the Harborwalk through Boston's newest neighborhood. The Seaport has filled in fast with restaurants, public art, and a wide boardwalk that runs along the water's edge. The stretch from Fan Pier to the ICA building gives you the best view back across the harbor to the downtown skyline, and on a clear evening the light off the water is the best free show in the city. Time it for an hour before sunset if you can.

Close the trip with dinner in the Seaport. Row 34 is a standout for oysters and New England seafood in a bright, industrial space. Legal Harborside has three floors with increasing formality, and the rooftop deck in warm months is worth the wait. Budget $35 to $50 per person for a full meal with a drink. After dinner, walk the Harborwalk east for the sunset and the harbor lights.